At the point...of no return..TURNING

Its fine to creep your feet forwards and backwards on a board after popping up. I sometimes walk on my 6'10 up and down to the middle like its a longboard.
Anyway so you can catch waves and want to know how to start turning?

Its better to try turning as soon as possible once you have stood up, without speed you wont turn as well.
Turning a surfboard is all about weight placement, and most of your weight is placed on your back foot. When you want to turn use your leading arm to point in the direction you want to go, also this is important, always look where you want to be going - never look down at your feet!

Once you point your front arm and look in the direction (left or right) you want to go your feet + hips will adjust slightly automatically (they will twist) and enable you to turn.

Think thats the simplest way to start turning, its just like on a skateboard - you have to lean into the turn



Paddling in the direction you want to go will definitely help.

You need to have you're back foot over the fin to do any sort of significant turns.
So, it depends on were you are when you pop-up. You may just need to put more pressure on your back foot. You may need to step back with your back foot, while not moving your front foot (this is what I do). Or, if you're pretty far up the board; you may need to cross-step back to the tail. Press down hard and put more pressure on your heel or toe side depending on which way you want to go (and look and point in the desired direction). You may over do it and fall, but at least you'll know what you need to do next time.

Cross-step forward when you are already going in the direction you want to go in order to gain speed.

Longboarding is all about walking the board.

Easy tip is wherever your head goes your body will follow. Lokk to where you want to be. To turn a log you have to be right on the tail. When you think you are the take another step back. Pivot baby



to turn a longboard quickly , your back foot needs to be on the tail , over the fins. when your going in the right direction , you'll need to trim the board by moving forward over the sweet spot unless its a big wave and theres all the push you need
watch guys surfing big pipe
even on shortboards , once they've set a line the back foot comes forward , off the tail pad , to shift weight forward and gain speed
if you stay on the tail on a longboard in small waves, it'll stall , the wave will overtake you
surfings all about trim
your position rarely changes paddling. the nose should just clear the surface of the water. to prevent pearling (nose goes under and board shoots out between your open legs as you dive for the bottom) watch which way the wave will break and paddle towards 10.30 or 1.30 ish respectively (beach at 12.00 obviously) otherwise the rocker (bottom curve) of the longboard won't fit the wave. you can almost take off sideways on a longboard
hope that helps

BRRRR...cold in the water...oops dropped my board...so...

Surfboard Maintenance...

Basics of Surfboard Maintenance -- powered by eHow.com



Some Final Notes to Anyone Buying a Used Surf Board
The two main things to check out on a used surf board (aside from the size and shape of the board) are the fins and whether or not the board is water tight.
Fins: With the fins, if they are glassed on (permanently attached) to the board, are they on solidly? If they seem loose or have any ‘give’ at the base of the fin, there could be problems down the road. The price of the board should reflect that. If there are a few very thin cracks at the base of one of the fins, usually water will not get in there but there is a slight risk. If the board has removable fins, just make sure that all of the plugs or boxes are firmly attached to the board.
Water Tight: If a board has dings that will allow water to get under the fiber glass layer into the foam of the board, then these dings must be fixed. Surfing on a board that is taking on water will lead to discoloration of the board (usually a brown spot will grow) and weakening of the board in general. If a board has dings that have been repaired well, generally you are not likely to have further problems with the dings BUT you never know. Thus, as the number of dings go up the $ price normally will go down.
One further note on dings. Pressure dings are dents into the board. Unless a pressure ding has fractures around it in the glass (circular cracks in or around the dent), a pressure ding usually will not compromise the structure of a board. Pressure dings are common in used boards and are generally more a cosmetic concern than anything else. If a board does have an unusual number of pressure dings it can be considered a sign of a weak board. This weakness would be due to either a light fiberglass job or use of an ultra light foam blank or both. In this situation, you can expect the board to ding more easily in the future and have a shorter life span.

Women and Craft Beer, or The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pints!

Women and Craft Beer, or The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pints!

Posted using ShareThis

Finding the right board shop...SHOP LOCAL!!!

I'm all about the local shops- local shapers and buying made in the USA! yes you still can buy surfboards and equipment made in the good ol USA...and I found a great shop completely by accident when down in IB!! Locally shaped, beautiful boards- long boards, short boards- all shapes- sizes. Prices are UNBELIEVABLE!!!

http://www.tntsurf.com/

Check it out!!! I certainly support these guys all the way.

Sweet Rides on the shores..practice busting some moves!

START TO MOVE ON THE BOARD KNEE CHEST HIGH WAVES:


big(ish) waves on a longboard

Postby jimmynitcher on Sat Oct 13, 2007 8:40 pm
Hi,

I've just got to a stage where I am turning for the first time and trimming along nicely, it's a fantastic feeling and I well and truly hooked (age 48 btw, no probs, getting younger everyday!)

My first board - I've got a Custard Point all rounder (9'6") with thrusters and when it gets shoulder high I start nosediving before I can turn or I just drop off the face.

Are there any particular things I should be doing when it gets a bit bigger?

cheers people

j

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Re: big(ish) waves on a longboard

Postby hughesy on Sat Oct 13, 2007 9:44 pm
Work on your wave selection and concentrate on getting into the wave early. The beauty of longboards is you can paddle in early making the take off less critical. The idea put about by some people that longboards are only any good in little stuff is crap, they don't realy come alive till the waves are shoulder high at least.

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Re: big(ish) waves on a longboard

Postby Poo Stance on Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:01 pm
"concentrate on getting onto the wave early" ....

he means, sit further out back and try and catch the wave as its building rather than at a more critical point (ie. not so close to the time the wave breaks).

with a bigger board you can paddle faster but it takes a couple more strokes to get up to speed. Bigger waves travel faster so you need to start stroking a bit earlier, but you dont want to do this if your sitting too far inside, so sit out back further.

Just one point tho, if your doing this it means you can 'steal' alot of waves of the shortboarders who need to sit more inside in that critical place. This is when you need to show some respect to those who choose to ride shorter boards and realise when you've caught more waves than others in the water around you. Ie. try and keep an eye out on how many waves other people are taking. which can be hard if its crowded. Another way is to let a few waves go, just put your hands up and let people know you are not attempting to catch every wave. You will make alot of friends this way and have a more enjoyable surf, as will everyone else.

Paddling earlier should get you onto the wave nice and early and you can then stand up way before the wave breaks and gets too steep, thus eliminating the nose diving lark.

Remember, share the love, share the waves or you will eventually piss someone off.

hope this helps. enjoy :)

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Re: big(ish) waves on a longboard

Postby Chewbecca on Sun Oct 14, 2007 9:57 pm
To be honest, it sounds like you are doing something wrong, because there is no reason you shouldn't be able to drop into big steep waves on a longboard. If you're nosediving then maybe you are popping up to far forward (or too late) or not getting back quick enough?

To get yourself started in the bigger stuff try angling your takeoff (ie turning while you paddle just before the wave gets to you) so that you are already going in the right direction as you take off. Much less risk of nosediving or screwing up your turns that way.

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Re: big(ish) waves on a longboard

Postby jimmynitcher on Tue Oct 16, 2007 9:08 pm
All good ideas - the point about not taking them all is a good one too, I try to be as respectful as possible, as an 'intermediate/learner' I have only just felt confident enough to be amongst the crowd, I have up till now been well away from people losing out on the best sections as a result.

Anyhoo I killed two birds with one stone: the other day I had my best session ever by taking off earlier and paddling harder , it meant I needed to rest longer, allowing others onto plenty of good stuff so I'm really grateful to your help folks.

j

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Re: big(ish) waves on a longboard

Postby mateusferianci on Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:00 am
Helo everybody!

I´m looking to buy a used surfboard, couse I will saty a month in Cape Town, There is anyone who could help me to do it?

thanks

Mateus

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Re: big(ish) waves on a longboard

Postby weaver on Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:59 am
Just to keep your stoke up jimmy one day this will happen to you. You've read the wave right, paddled early and hard and the board's sitting just off the shoulder and pretty flat on a chest high wave. You'll pop and lo and behold you're standing on a board that's perched like a see saw on top of clean wave with one foot behind the crest and the other in front of it. Your board's still moving forward and you've got all the time in the world and you'll KNOW that all you have to do is make one little cross step with your back foot for a fraction of a second and the board will tilt down the face. What happens next is the stuff of dreams. With all that planing surface on a long board it'll take off like a rocket straight down the face and at the end of the drop all you'll have to do is make a tiny weight shift across the board and you're into a howling, carving turn off the rail. Have a look at Bonga Perkins taking the drop in "Single Fin Yellow" (even he wipes at the first attempt) if you get a chance......................stay stoked............. :-D
Speed of a racehorse, strength of a carthorse, brains of a rocking horse.

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Re: big(ish) waves on a longboard

Postby jimmynitcher on Sat Oct 20, 2007 8:27 am
Now THAT is what I'm after!

Does the cross step mean you switch from goofy to regular? I'd better see the film.

I get the odd glimpse sometimes but its more luck than design at the mo and the position of my feet is still a bit of a mystery, I'm trying all sorts of variations and trying to log the results in my mind, sometimes I see people turning with a really narrow stance and it seems to be more about leaning, which I'm a bit crap at.

All good fun, thanks for the help and encouragement!

j

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Re: big(ish) waves on a longboard

Postby weaver on Sat Oct 20, 2007 9:09 am

jimmynitcher wrote:Now THAT is what I'm after!

Does the cross step mean you switch from goofy to regular? I'd better see the film.

I get the odd glimpse sometimes but its more luck than design at the mo and the position of my feet is still a bit of a mystery, I'm trying all sorts of variations and trying to log the results in my mind, sometimes I see people turning with a really narrow stance and it seems to be more about leaning, which I'm a bit crap at.

All good fun, thanks for the help and encouragement!

j



Think of it as standing on a see saw with one foot either side of the pivot and everything balanced. I'm regular so to make the thing tilt I make a single cross step with my right foot, left foot does'nt move, sqeeze down onto the right foot and as the nose goes down right foot goes back to where it was. I get the narrow stance thing towards the end of a session when arms and legs are getting tired but like I said if you've got the speed you'll turn off the rail with hardly any weight shift. If you're not travelling that fast try putting short, small rocks onto toes or heels so you don't overbalance and instead of making a long carving turn you'll make a series of smaller ones. Works for me................. :-)
Speed of a racehorse, strength of a carthorse, brains of a rocking horse.

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Re: big(ish) waves on a longboard

Postby jimmynitcher on Sat Oct 20, 2007 2:28 pm
Thanks, its great to be able to get the details, watching people is kind of inexact.

Speed is critical isn't it ? At the moment I kind of shuffle forward as quiick as poss to if I feel it stalling, but a cross step maybe better, do you step in front or behind the front foot?

I actually got to the pivot point on top of one today but I saw a couple of people dawdling in front of the wave and I put the weight on the wrong foot and reversed back over the wave! Not my most glorious moment, that came later when I rode high up on one for ages and I could see another 50 yards of it ahead when someobody actually dropped in in me, boy was I pissed off, but didn't show it as I still feel like an imposter for some reason, the guy apologised so at least he knew, but it would have been a great last one of the day, I tried to find another like it for another half hour and of course nada, strange feeling of being robbed!

ah well there's always tomorrow

Waxing your Surfboard- NO SLIPPA!

Waxing your surf board properly is essential to maximizing your surfing skill. A well waxed board can be the difference between standing and slipping, glory and defeat, wellness and injury
.

The first thing to consider is what kind of wax to buy. All of the leading brands are comparable. But while brand name isn't important, whether or not you buy warm or cold water wax is important. Using wax intended for the opposite water conditions can cause it to slide right off your board, which is exactly what you will do if you don't have any wax on your board.

The cutoff between warm and cold water waxes varies slightly with brand name, but is always printed clearly on the outside of the package. Simply be aware of the water temperature where you will be surfing and the corresponding recommended temperatures on the package.

Once you have your wax, you need to get the old wax off your board. (If this is the first time you are waxing your board, you are lucky. Don't worry about this stuff.) The easiest method is to lay your board out in the sun so that the wax already on the board softens. One it softens, scarpe it off gently with a rubber comb made for just that task and sold at surf shops. If you don't have one of these combs, a variety of things will work: any flat edged surface of soft plastic or hard rubber, the end of a swim fin, etc. Just try to avoid metal-- it will scratch up your board.

Once the old wax is gone, its time to start with the new wax. If the surface of the board is still hot, cool it down with some cool water. Then, when the board is dry, apply the wax in a circular motion. You don't need to put wax on the entire board-- only where your hands and feet will come into contact with the board. That means anticipating where you will spring up, and where on the rails you will push up with your hands. Remember, there's no harm in putting wax somewhere and ending up not needing it. Better too much wax than not enough.

When you are done applying the wax, spray some cool water over the surface of the board so that the wax cools and hardens and stays on the board.

Finally, be sure you don't leave your waxed board in the hot sun, or the wax will melt right off. Also, avoid getting your fresh wax sandy, because it will feel like sandpaper on your skin.

Kookiness...

Kookarama today got beat up by some waves and I drifted into serious rip current...was not fun and I am sure not pretty!

You’re Probably a Kook if…

---you have stickers all over your board, but you’re not sponsored.

---you have claimed a maneuver in waves under waist high.

---you gave yourself a nickname like “Shredder” or “Airman”.

---you continually ask others if they saw your last wave.

---claim that you could surf as well as any pro if you just had good waves to practice in.

---think that being good at that Kelly Slater video game somehow translates into being a good surfer.

---when watching someone on video straighten out at huge Backdoor, you yell, “What a wus! I would’ve pulled in.”

---you purposely drop in on someone in good surf.

---think that anyone who rides a different board (long, short, fun shape, boogie board) has less of a right to be riding waves than you.

---actually utter the statement, “I was ripping today.”

---when the waves are good, you leave the water for a cigarette.

---you hoot at yourself.

---your nickname is “Flappy” or something similar.

---you think you have the authority to write a list that explains why other people are kooks.

---you wear your rash guard as a regular shirt.

---you broke your board hopping across the face of a knee high wave.

---you have never surfed without a leash.

---You are reading this list.

Just a reminder..catching waves.

After surfers overcome the hurdle of learning how to stand and ride waves, there is a period in their development which can be called the “novice” stage of development. This is where surfers are learning the foundation skills of the sport and every surfer, right from Joe Blow at your local beach to Kelly Slater, must pass through this stage to create consistency in their performances.
Positioning is critical to catching waves

Positioning is critical to catching waves

The skills I am talking about here are the skills of positioning in the line-up, catching waves paddled for, successfully taking the drop, and consistently riding waves from beginning to end. Notice, I haven’t mentioned the performance of surfing manoeuvres, as learning to perform moves, comes later in the developmental process.

The typical novice performance is one where the surfer would paddle for lots of waves, but catch only a few. Once they catch a wave, they usually pop-up slow, ride their waves by going straight through the middle of the wave, and kick-out before the end section, normally because of a healthy aversion to being smashed.

But initially, most mistakes occur around the takeoff, and these can be categorised into two main issues.

1. Novice surfers typically try to catch their waves from the shoulder of the peak, primarily because of a lack of confidence or fear of being pitched at takeoff. If you like, they take the cautious approach, but you can’t catch waves if you aren’t on the steep face of a wave. In the surf yesterday I heard a father advising his novice son to paddle in deeper to catch his waves, indicating that he was too far out on the shoulder. The direction he gave was correct, but the terminology was wrong, as the novice surfer needs more specific instruction, as in his mind, he was thinking he was already deep enough. It would have been more correct and effective if the father had said, “Paddle over and catch the wave from where it initially breaks”. With this direction, the novice surfer has a picture of where they need to go, and with that comes the direction to position themselves in a more positive way.
Breaking the ledge makes the drop easier

Breaking the ledge makes the drop easier

2. Most novice surfers get hung up in the lip at takeoff, causing then to fade over the back of the wave or to get pitched. What should be understood, is that there is a ledge at the top of every wave that must be broken through to achieve consistency when taking the drop. This ledge is really the lip that will pitch out as the wave breaks. In soft waves, the ledge is narrow and easy to break through, but in hollow and large waves, it is a significant size that requires forceful paddling to break. Once broken, the drop down the waveface is much easier. To overcome getting caught in the lip, novice surfer should take 2-3 more strokes than they think they should to break the ledge and with that, more consistency when dropping down the waveface.

Positioning oneself on the peak and breaking the ledge are fundamental to creating confidence when surfing, and are foundation skills that will enhance all other aspects in a surfing performance.

School Of Surf | Ep. 1 | Two Coasts

School Of Surf | Ep. 1 | Two Coasts: "Follow two high school surf teams as they battle to be crowned the best surfers in the nation."

Bitchin show- music and east west coast transition!

Understand the Different Types of Ocean Waves & Breaks: How to Surf | eHow.com

Understand the Different Types of Ocean Waves & Breaks: How to Surf | eHow.com

How to pick out a surfboard...

#

If you're a beginner, get a cheap used board that you can knock around while learning, not an expensive and stylish board. Check that the fins are securely in place and that there are no holes in the fiberglass. Small repairs are fine, but avoid boards that have been broken in half and repaired.
#
Step 4

Inspect the dimensions, usually written on the bottom. For beginners, concern yourself with the length, width and thickness. Ignore the nose and tail dimensions. Width ranges from about 18 to 21 inches. Most thicknesses fall between 2 and 3 inches.
#
Step 5

Larger surfers need larger boards. A 220-lb. (82-kg) person might choose a 7-foot shortboard, 21 inches wide and 3 inches thick. An 80-lb. (30-kg) kid will surf better on a 5-foot board, 18 inches wide and 2 inches thick. For longboards, most people choose 9- foot boards. People of above-average size should consider slightly longer boards, such as 9-foot-6 inches.
#
Step 6

Avoid very old boards; they just won't surf very well. Old longboards are easy to identify because they weigh over 20 lbs.(7.5 kg). If it's hard to lift, it will be hard to surf with. Also avoid shortboards with only one fin. A modern shortboard has three or more fins.
#
Step 7

Expect to pay at least $100 for a serviceable used shortboard. New shortboards range from $350 to $500. A good used longboard will cost at least $300. New longboards cost $450 to $700.

Ball Push Ups for Better Surf Endurance
Todd Walsh | todd@surfstronger.com

Whatever happened to that classic, gold-standard exercise, the push up? You don't see people busting them out like they used to. Yet the push up remains one of the best strength building exercises you can do. Simple---no equipment needed; do 'em anywhere---yet challenging and effective.

Here at Surf Stronger, we put a slight spin on your standard push up by doing the exercise on a stability ball. This is an excellent surf-specific movement, because it builds strength in the chest and arms for paddling and simulates the unstable, wobbly nature of duck-diving. You'll appreciate the benefits of these push ups during tough paddles and whenever you have to perform several duck-dives in a row.



Beginner: 5-8 repetitions; 3 sets with 30 seconds rest between sets
Intermediate/Advanced: 15-20 repetitions; 3 sets with a minute rest between sets

ball pushup for surfing

Make it Tougher:
While doing the ball push up, try raising one foot off the ground for a few reps. Keep your core active and don't let your body twist. For example, try five reps with both feet on the ground, five reps with your left foot off the ground, and five reps with your right foot off the ground. This movement mimics the feeling of duck-diving and adds a nice core stability challenge.

ball pushup for surfing

If you want to boost your core and upper body fitness and you are already doing the ball push ups as part of Surf Stronger Volume 1, try adding one or two more sets of push ups right before you start the cool down stretch. This extra effort will pay off during your next session.

For more surf-specific training, get a Surf Stronger video today.

Stay healthy and we'll see you in the water!
-The Surf Stronger Crew

How to Duck Dive When Surfing | eHow.com

How to Duck Dive When Surfing | eHow.com

Challenge of the day- Paddle out in bigger waves

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlLo65WijW4
(Waimea Bay paddle out)

Instructions

1.
Step 1

Watch where other surfers get in the water, and observe the route they use to paddle out.
2.
Step 2

Strap your leash to the ankle you position at the back of your board when you're in your surfing stance, but hold the slack so you don't trip as you get into the water.
3.
Step 3

Wade into the water until you're thigh- or waist-deep and getting washed by the "soup."
4.
Step 4

Hold your board beside you, out of the water, and lift the tip over each successive wave while you wait for a lull between big waves.
5.
Step 5

Jump onto your board and start paddling freestyle, using your arms one at a time, when you think the "set," or the big waves, are momentarily through.
6.
Step 6

Paddle as fast as you can, especially if the next set looks big, and consider your three options when a wave breaks in front of you: duck dive, turtle roll or bail (see related eHow: "Duck Dive When Surfing."

Mary Osborne- Book to buy!

Sister Surfer: A Woman's Guide to Surfing with Bliss and Courage (Paperback)
~ Mary Osborne (Author), Kia Afcari
Kia Afcari (Author)


Patagonia Ambassador for Women's Surfing Mary Osborne
Photo: Jeff Johnson
Mary Osborne
BioPatagonia Women's Surfing Ambassador Mary Osborne
Pro Surfer Mary Osborne started surfing at the age of 14. As the youngest of four, and the only girl, Mary's older brothers have had a huge influence on her surfing ability. Her three brothers are all extremely talented surfers and keeping up with them has obviously rubbed off on her. As a contest surfer, Osborne rides a longboard, but as a free surfer she'll ride anything... and ride it well.

Mary started surfing around the same time local surf shop owner, and former pro surfer, David Pu’u began pursuing a new career as a photographer. The two started working together and began creating beautiful modeling and surfing images and, as a result, Mary began pursuing her career as a professional surfer.

Mary has been featured in magazines such as Longboard, Surfing, Surfer, Surf News, The Surfer’s Path, Wahine, Surf Life for Women, Surfing Girl, Nalu, FHM, Entertainment Weekly, Brass, Women's Health, and Spin Magazine. She has also appeared as a host on Fox Sports Net’s “54321” and in numerous surf films including Multiple Personalities, Beneath the Surface, An Equatorial Convergence, The Endless Journey Continues, Sea Legs, Girls Rip, and Live. Mary also co-authored a book with Kia Afcari titled, Sister Surfer: A Woman’s Guide to Surfing with Bliss and Courage. The inspirational how-to book guides women through the process of learning how to surf, covering everything from how to conquer fear to how to wax a surfboard. Mary travels the world to surf
but still calls Ventura, California her home.

GO211 Surf Video- Costa Rica

GO211 Surf Video- Costa Rica

Awesome long board rides...go Mary!

After it rains...beware....but does that stop us?

Since the storm season is upon us here in California: What types of infections/diseases am I exposing myself to by surfing after or during the rain? I've heard that you can get Hepatitis, are there any other dangers? Is it worth it to get vaccinated for some of these diseases to lessen the risks?
asked by Joe McBride

Answer

Chad Nelsen, environmental director of the Surfrider Foundation, responds:

"The Surfrider Foundation has always advised the public never to swim or surf after a rain. The coastal waters are polluted with urban runoff and sewage from leaking water logged sewer pipes. In most places, and especially in Southern California, ocean water quality after a rain is dangerous.

In Southern California most counties issues a 72-hour advisory after it rains. Unfortunately, they do not post the beaches after a rain. The Orange County Department of Health has been quoted as saying, "We just assume all surfers know that the water is polluted after it rains." Surfrider thinks increased outreach must be done to warn surfers of the risks.

A study cited in EPA's draft guidance document on water quality found that surfers and divers were at greater risk of illness from contact with contaminated beach water than are swimmers or waders. In addition, an epidemiological study in Santa Monica Bay found that there is increased risk in swimming within 400 yards of a flowing storm drain. In Southern California you will be hard pressed to find a stretch of surf that isn't near a storm drain.

Waters that are polluted may contain several different disease-causing organisms, commonly called pathogens. Enteric pathogens -- those that live in the human intestine - can carry or cause a number of infectious diseases. Swimmers in sewage-polluted water could contract any illness that is spread by ingestion of fecal-contaminated water. (AIDS and many other diseases are not carried by enteric pathogens.)

Viruses are believed to be the major cause of swimming-associated diseases, and are responsible for gastroenteritis, hepatitis, respiratory illness, and ear, nose, and throat problems. Gastroenteritis, which can also be caused by bacteria, is a common term for a variety of diseases that can cause symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, stomach ache, nausea, headache, and fever. Other microbial diseases that can be contracted by swimmers include salmonellosis, shigellosis, and infection caused by E. coli (a type of enteric pathogen). Other microbial pathogens found at varying concentrations in recreational waters include amoeba and protozoa, which can cause giardiasis, amoebic dysentery, skin rashes, and pink eye.

There is also what we call the "toxic cocktail" of pesticides, herbicides, heavy metals and other pollutants that are not monitored regularly and the health effects are poorly understood.

Here are a couple (very) extreme Surfrider examples from last year that resulted from presumed sewage spills:

Chris O'Connel had a cut on his arm and went in Mission Bay San Diego after a recent rain. His arm became infected with the Streptococcus bacteria and he almost died. Three operations and two and half weeks in the hospital saved his life.

Also, a member of the Long Beach Chapter of Surfrider Foundation became infected with the same bacteria after surfing near the San Gabriel River Mouth. Charles Moore of Long Beach was also hospitalized for two weeks."

Wow- action packed week of contests...Pipeline on now

http://www.triplecrownofsurfing.com/pipelinemasters/live.php

Surf Cam of the week for LJS

http://www.socalbeachmag.net/surfwebcam/scrippspiersurfwebcam.html

OC surfer beats Kelly Slater in big-wave contest | long, wave, contest - Life - The Orange County Register

OC surfer beats Kelly Slater in big-wave contest | long, wave, contest - Life - The Orange County Register

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Build up strength- upper body....nice video!

Warm up 1

To warm up the shoulders, place your left hand behind your back with your palm facing out. Take your right hand and drape a towel over your shoulder. Grasping the towel with both hands slowly pull with the top hand allowing the bottom hand to move up the middle of your back. You will feel a stretch in the front of the left shoulder. Reverse the movement pulling with the lower hand. You'll now feel a stretch on the right side. Repeat 8 times each direction and then switch hand positions. These muscles can be tight so be careful not to pull too much. Go just to the point of slight discomfort. Each repetition should get easier. This is also a great exercise to do before you paddle out.

Exercise 1

Start off in your standard push up position. With your elbows straight, drop your chest and allow your shoulder blades to come together. Reverse the movement and allow your mid back to round out. Repeat. The focus of the exercise is to get the Serratus muscles of the shoulder to do most of the work. Keep your elbows straight and move from the shoulder girdle. For added challenge do the exercise with your hands on a stability ball. Do 15-2- reps. Once you are comfortable with the straight arm push up, do a full push up and incorporate the rounding of the shoulders on the top of the movement.

Exercise 2

Lie on a stability ball grasping a pair of dumbbells in each hand. Raise the arms parallel to the ground, squeezing your shoulder blades together. Imagine a clock face on the floor and hit the 9 and 3 o'clock position. Next, do a set hitting the 10 and 2 o'clock position. And last, do a set hitting the 5 and 7 o'clock position. Try starting without weights and get the movement dialed in. Pay attention to keeping your shoulders pulled down and away from your ears. Do 8-10 repetitions in each position.

Exercise 3

Lie on your right side and hold a dumbbell (5-8 lb.) in your left hand. Bend your elbow at 90 degrees and place your elbow against your left side. Lift the weight by rotating your shoulder away from the ground. Don't allow your elbow to lose contact with your side. You can hold a small rolled up towel between your elbow and side to ensure this. Roll over and repeat on the opposite side. Do 15-20 reps with good form. Don't go too heavy on the weight. These are smaller, stabilizing muscles that respond better to precise movement rather than brute effort.

Stretch 1

End your workout with a few chest stretches. To stretch the chest, lie back on a stability ball extending your arms back and out to the sides. Allow your upper back to extend across the ball and relax your neck by resting your head on the ball. Actively press the back of your arms against the ball and move from the top to the bottom position several times, pausing in areas that have more tightness.

Stretch 2

To stretch out the back of the shoulder bring one arm straight across the chest. With the opposite hand pull away from the shoulder you are stretching creating a feeling of traction in the shoulder joint. Pull to the point of a good stretch but without pain. Repeat three times on each shoulder. Don't force the stretch, It will come over time. Hold the stretch for a couple deep breaths and repeat 3-4 times daily.

A final tip is make sure you have good paddling technique. Even with great conditioning you can develop shoulder problems if you have poor body position while paddling.

During the off time surf days....

as the rain poured, water quality and clarity declined..and now big big waves rolling into Socal, time to spend some time on surf fitness. Found a cool site that helps build core and gives tips, videos- stability, balance etc.

Eddie Aikau, Waimea Bay HI..AWESOME

Live streaming video of 30 ft waves...and the best surfers in the world riding them!

http://live.quiksilver.com/2009/bigwave/live.php?btn_live=_over

Weather...bad wind..bad rain!

What I have been learning is to read maps, surf reports and generally just read about weather in general for surfing purposes. We are going to get a big swell through SOcal this week- check it out already reports of 50 ft waves in HI.

San Diego will get he swell hitting Wed- peaking Thursday. I was expecting to surf today but alas the cold rain- not happening and the waves are choppy due to wind.

One day out of the water- guess it won't kill me!

BIG SURF WARNING>>>HI

OAHU-
700 PM HST SUN DEC 6 2009

HIGH SURF WARNING FOR NORTH

Surf along north facing shores will build to heights of 30 to 40 feet Monday with occasional sets to 50 feet on the outer reefs.

Surf along west facing shores will rise to heights of 15 to 25 feet with occasional 30 footers Monday.

Surf along east facing shores will increase to heights of 10 to 18 feet along shores exposed to the northwest swell Monday.

Surf along south facing shores will be 1 to 3 feet Monday. However, some areas may experience inconsistent waves in unusual places as the large northwest swell wraps around into the south shores.

Outlook through Saturday Dec 12: surf will exceed warning levels well into the middle of the week.

Surf heights are forecast heights of the face or front of waves. The surf forecast is based on the significant wave height, the average height of the one third largest waves, in the zone of maximum refraction. Some waves may be more than twice as high as the significant wave height. Expect to encounter rip currents in or near any surf zone.

Today's session reminded me of Surf Etiquette!

Doesn't look crowded- but where the good waves were breaking there was a group of hacks- white trash- is my only description the conversation was "Snap on Tools..." but I wasn't going to bail until this dude almost hit me twice no less with his board!! so...mental note I am learning surf etiquette- and I bail if I know I was not on the wave first, this douchebags apparently missed that lesson:

Rule #1: Right of Way

The Surfer Closest To The Peak Has The Right Of Way.

The surfer closest to the peak of the wave has the right of way. This means if you’re paddling for a right, and a surfer on your left is also paddling for it, you must yield to him or her. There are a couple variations to this rule:

If someone is up riding a wave, don’t attempt a late takeoff between the curl/whitewater and the surfer. If the surfer who’s riding the wave wants to make a cutback she’ll run right into you.

Just because the whitewater catches up to a surfer riding a wave doesn’t give you permission to take off down the line. Many talented surfers can outrun the section and get back to the face of the wave.

The Surfer Closest To The Peak Has The Right Of Way.A-Frames or Split Peaks: If two surfers are on either side of the peak, they each have the right of way to take off on their respective sides. It’s not generally accepted to take off behind the peak unless there’s nobody on the other side. These surfers should split the peak and go opposite ways.

If a surfer riding a wave gets closed out with an impossible section or wipes out, the next surfer down the line can take off. If you’re a very new beginner I’d hold off on doing this anyway until you have a bit more experience.

The Surfer Closest To The Peak Has The Right Of Way.If a wave is breaking towards itself (a closeout) and two surfers are taking off at each other, yes both have the right of way but this is a perilous situation and it’s advisable to kick out early to avoid a collision.
Rule #2: Don’t Drop In

The Surfer Closest To The Peak Has The Right Of Way.

This is related to Rule #1. This is probably the most important part of surfing etiquette. Dropping in means that someone with the right of way is either about to take off on a wave or is already riding a wave, and you also take off on the same wave in front of him or her. This blocks his ride down the line, and is extremely annoying, not to mention dangerous. If you are tempted to drop in remember this: no matter how good the wave is, if you drop in on someone you’ll feel like crap, the other surfer will be pissed, and the wave will be ruined for everyone.
Rule #3: Paddling Rules:

Some common sense surfing etiquette rules that people don’t seem to realize are important. Don’t paddle straight through the heart of the lineup where people are surfing. Paddle out through the channel where the waves aren’t breaking and people aren’t surfing. Sometimes at spread out beach breaks this is hard, but usually there is a less crowded area to paddle through.

The Surfer Closest To The Peak Has The Right Of Way.When paddling back out, do NOT paddle in front of someone riding a wave unless you’re well, well in front of him. You must paddle behind those who are up and riding and take the whitewater hit or duckdive. You’ll appreciate this the next time you’re up on a wave.

Sometimes you’ll just end up in a bad spot and won’t be able to paddle behind a surfer. It’s your responsibility to speed paddle to get over the wave and out of his or her way. If you don’t do this, he or she might just run you over!
Rule #4: Don’t Ditch Your Board

This is important, especially when it gets crowded. Always try to maintain control and contact with your board. Surfboards are large, heavy, and hard. If you let your board go flying around, it is going to eventually clock someone in the head. This means if you’re paddling out and a wall of whitewater is coming, you don’t have permission to just throw your board away and dive under. If you throw your board and there is someone paddling out behind you, there is going to be carnage. This is a hard rule for beginners, but if you manage to avoid picking up the habit of throwing your board you will be a MUCH better surfer.
Rule #5: Don’t Snake

“Snaking” is when a surfer paddles around another surfer in order position himself to get the right of way for a wave. He is effectively making a big “S” around a fellow surfer. While not immediately hazardous to your health, this is incredibly annoying. You can’t cut the lineup. Patiently wait your turn. Wave hogs don’t get respect in the water. Also, being a local doesn’t give you permission to ruthlessly snake visitors who are being polite. If they’re not being polite, well…
Rule #6: Beginners: don’t paddle out to the middle of a packed lineup.

This is kind of open to interpretation, but it still stands: if you’re a beginner you should try to avoid paddling out into the middle of a pack of experienced veterans. Try to go out to a less crowded beginner break. You’ll know you’re in the wrong spot if you get the stink-eye!
Rule #7: Don’t be a wave hog.

Just because you can catch all the waves doesn’t mean you should. This generally applies to longboarders, kayakers, or stand up paddlers. Since it’s easier to catch waves on these watercraft, it becomes tempting to catch them all, leaving nothing for shortboarders on the inside. Give a wave, get a wave.
Rule #8: Respect the beach

Don’t litter. Simple as that. Pick up your trash, and try to pick up a few pieces of trash before you leave even if it’s not yours.
Rule #9: Drive responsibly

The locals who live in the residential areas near the beach deserve your respect. Don’t speed or drive recklessly.
Rule #10: If you mess up

Nobody really mentions this in surfing etiquette lists, but if you mess up and accidentally drop in or mess up someone’s wave, a quick apology is appreciated, and goes a long way to reducing tension in crowded lineups. You don’t have to grovel at their feet (well, unless you did something horrible). Honestly, if you drop in on someone and then ignore them, it’s pretty stupid.
* * *

This might seem like a lot of stuff to remember, but in time it will become second nature. Most surfing etiquette rules are common sense anyway.

Have fun in the water!

Sweet trick!

http://www.jettygirl.com/features/tricks.jen.smith.html

Congratulations Sally Fitzgibbons!

Congratulations Sally Fitzgibbons!

Stick Figure Surfing Jamming Reggae!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpsF3LadNiE

Action shot- making it happen hung over!

Some Surf competition! NICE

Let's see if any one is paying attention - probably just me- WAVES

West Coast Weekly Surf Forecast And Surf Report For Califirnia, Oregon, And Washington TransWorld SURF

West Coast Weekly Surf Forecast And Surf Report For Califirnia, Oregon, And Washington TransWorld SURF

Surf Spots to Avoid in San Diego for beginner's

Worst Beginner Surf Spots in SD
Posted: 11/29



Knowing where NOT to paddle out due to heavy localism isn't just proper ettiquette, it's smart surfing. San Diego, like many beach cities, offers a handful of surf spots that aren't quite suitable for the "removal of the training wheels".

If you're a beginner or barely intermediate, below are some spots you would find debilitating and should avoid (even if your skills are above average theses are no green light, smiley face crowds - they are challenging for most).

Our goal here is to keep you in a more positive surf environment so you can naturally improve with efficacy all while respecting the heavily localized spots. If this seems silly, stupid, or difficult to understand now, you will be amazed how the tables will turn as your skills continue to develop.

Mission Jetty, Mission Beach

This is the left hander that meets the north side of the rocks. It's guaranteed at some point during your session you will receive some sort of look or comment designed to immediately decimate your confidence level. The long term strategy here is to discourage you from surfing that spot anytime in the near future. Giving the circumstances, it's best to move on to a more welcoming vibe that facilitates learning. It's impossible to focus on improving your surfing here with a head full of negative thoughts.

New Break, Sunset Cliffs

This break is south of Ocean Beach somewhere deep along the Cliffs. The best thing it offers beginners is its mysterious and difficult access. If you're still curious about the break, just ask any local on dry land and you should get the friendlier version of what lies ahead in the water.

Windansea, La Jolla

It's true; this break offers one of the best, consistent waves in San Diego. It’s also gift wrapped with a vibe that will put any newbie on edge to the point of discomfort. Verbal fights between all ages are commonplace. I even recall a dispute between a 55 year old woman and some dude in his mid 20’s. Fist fights are also witnessed occasionally.

Of course there are more spots like this in and outside of San Diego so let's hear about more in your backyard to point the newcomers in the right direction.

Tourmaline this am...

Back to some nice wave action in PB-Tourmaline- still variable onshore winds made reading wave breaks difficult this morning along with the changing tide. Still got a few rides in- not crowded at all- peaceful satisfying surf session.

La Jolla Shores surf pics on Saturday...Yikes!

Great article...great long board surfer

http://www.jettygirl.com/features/ashley.lloyd.html

Check out Ashley- she is an awesome surfer and a great musician.
Plus she gives lessons- I had a nice email conversation with her- nice!!

Also look up her website- all about her board shaping with Bing Surfboards.

http://web.mac.com/ashleylloydmusic/ashleylloydmusic/lady_shaper.html

Ashley wrote:
Thanks for the email Kate!
That's cool that you got a Gary Linden board. He's a friend of mine, who I haven't seen in a few years. Always liked Gary, and respect his shaping.
Congratulations on beginning to surf. I teach surfing, and it isn't unusual for me to teach a 40+ newbie. All you need is the bug and appreciation of surfing, and everything else falls into place.Would be stoked to be linked to you site.
much love and light,
ashley

Blown out surf-conditions

glad I didn't drive to Baja!!!

http://www.surfline.com

La Jolla Shore fun......

Seals in the water next to all of us out there surfing, very cool spot- little choppy!

La Jolla Shores- good beginner spot but beware some big stuff!

Close to Scripps Pier...nice spot lots of variety- women- kids and good place to pick up some white water and learn to stand up!

storm system produces big waves....

Big Stuff at Sunset Cliffs- OB

FRIDAY SURF REPORT>>>BIG STUFF

http://socalforecast.blogspot.com/2009/11/surf-for-friday-new-wnw-swell-starts-to.html

Nice spot but not for my type of surfing....

Grab the park pass if going to the OC- Calafia State Beach, few exits into San Clemente- parallel to train tracks. Still work checking out

I'll be back!!!

Shore Break beach..

Calafia State Beach- not a long board spot, lots of sponges and some short boarders- brave ones, the wave crashes in hard right at the shoreline, sat out for a few but couldn't wait to hit ground again!!

Beautiful...glassy...Turkey Day on the water

Pretty jamming time, crowded- but caught a few good ones, made a different not wearing booties, standing back on the board- and turned left- straight down the wave front not always the best way to roll- nose diving is no fun!

Total Contentment, Trestles is very nice surf spot

So glad I ventured out- trying different spots is good- change is good- good for the soul- good for the surf...got my groove on today-

its time...time to get away!! New surf spot!

http://beach.freedomblogging.com/files/2009/04/trestles.jpg

I need to practice this...over and over!!

Determine which way the wave will break then paddle and take off more to the shoulder rather then straight ahead of the peak.
To add to the above answer, ride farther back on your board.
If you start to tail drag, lean forward to compensate the weight to length variable.
take off aiming down the line, dont drop and turn. Beach breaks are likely to snap your board in half. It happened to my 7'10. one thing you can do is to put all your weight on your back foot and turn hard, but for the most part take off in the direction you want to go, not straight.
This is called pearling! If you stand further back on your board and turn with the wave rather than going straight for shore you should do better!!
try a board with more rocker
Absolutely situate yourself a little further back on the board. Also make sure you have the right thickness for your board. You have to have it thick enough to support your weight and ability but also keep you bouyant in the water. Sinking shouldn't happen.
Tags

Surfing: How To Read Waves (Sports & Outdoors: Surfing)

Surfing: How To Read Waves (Sports & Outdoors: Surfing)

How To Surf A Wave In One Day (Sports & Outdoors: Surfing)

How To Surf A Wave In One Day (Sports & Outdoors: Surfing)

No more bumpies!

just getting my body-spirit-mind back into the zone...some times you just have to feel it!

Ah love rituals....

keeping my feet nice- very important and seems to be a common ritual...

Beautiful out today...nice!

ok..so still at little off my game, but no bumps...no crashes. Just getting the groove back...

Awesome day....

so pretty this morning, but I was not on...I was off- the board many times I felt like I was dragging...like back to square one!

Some times timing is everything!!

Apparently I was not on my game today- and feeling it now!!

Forecast information

Best forecasts in Southern California, daily updates-emails etc.

Adam Wright...

http://socalforecast.blogspot.com/

Custom board

Gotta love getting your own custom board...and the shaper to do it..

http://www.lindensurfboards.com/s_longb.html

Gary Linden.

Surfbord snipit

of course have to mention my sponsor...hahaha. I love my Bill Stewart Surfboard!
http://www.stewartsurfboards.com/surfboards/2009/86655

ok now its time to get serious!!

this is what it is all about!!

I don't think she's over 40!!!

Ok Joelle- now what..you talked me into this action and I have no idea how to get a following..tell all the people you know on this earth???