Determine which way the wave will break then paddle and take off more to the shoulder rather then straight ahead of the peak.
To add to the above answer, ride farther back on your board.
If you start to tail drag, lean forward to compensate the weight to length variable.
take off aiming down the line, dont drop and turn. Beach breaks are likely to snap your board in half. It happened to my 7'10. one thing you can do is to put all your weight on your back foot and turn hard, but for the most part take off in the direction you want to go, not straight.
This is called pearling! If you stand further back on your board and turn with the wave rather than going straight for shore you should do better!!
try a board with more rocker
Absolutely situate yourself a little further back on the board. Also make sure you have the right thickness for your board. You have to have it thick enough to support your weight and ability but also keep you bouyant in the water. Sinking shouldn't happen.
Tags
No comments:
Post a Comment