Challenge of the day- Paddle out in bigger waves

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlLo65WijW4
(Waimea Bay paddle out)

Instructions

1.
Step 1

Watch where other surfers get in the water, and observe the route they use to paddle out.
2.
Step 2

Strap your leash to the ankle you position at the back of your board when you're in your surfing stance, but hold the slack so you don't trip as you get into the water.
3.
Step 3

Wade into the water until you're thigh- or waist-deep and getting washed by the "soup."
4.
Step 4

Hold your board beside you, out of the water, and lift the tip over each successive wave while you wait for a lull between big waves.
5.
Step 5

Jump onto your board and start paddling freestyle, using your arms one at a time, when you think the "set," or the big waves, are momentarily through.
6.
Step 6

Paddle as fast as you can, especially if the next set looks big, and consider your three options when a wave breaks in front of you: duck dive, turtle roll or bail (see related eHow: "Duck Dive When Surfing."