First off...gotta get out there beyond the break zones, more energy..more breaks- harder paddle session..once out there its time to watch how the waves are breaking- sitting out there for 15minutes is always good!
Paddle for a smaller wave to begin, one that you can catch with your longboard before it breaks. As the wave nears, slightly angle your board in the direction the wave will peel--not too much: you'll either miss the wave or it will roll you sideways. You'll learn the right angle after a few bails!
Stand as soon as the wave starts to take you, drop in and walk forward as needed to gather speed. You should already be slightly angled to surf with the wave down the line.
Walk your feet towards the back of the board as you get out ahead of the wave. Shift your weight slightly to your back foot and pivot the surfboard back toward the white water. The trick is being far enough back to easily turn the board, but not so far that you lose your balance.
Pivot on your back foot once you're close to the approaching whitewater, and turn the surfboard back around so you're surfing in the same direction the wave is peeling--with the wave. Walk forward as needed to gather speed.
Continue to surf down the line by alternately dropping down low, then turning back up the wave face--surfing in the direction the wave is headed, and occasionally turning back towards the whitewater as you move too far ahead of the peeling whitewater. Play with your feet--up and down the board--to learn how to properly speed up, slow down and pivot.
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